Our original design underdress pattern for our Regency French Empire dresses. This garment was also worn as a nightdress.
PDF Pattern includes:
General description and sewing guide Pattern pieces Fabric and notions guide Complete illustrated sewing instructions
Prints on standard size office paper Some pieces may need to be joined before cutting fabric. All pieces are clearly marked. Pattern has been sized to an AG doll with 11" chest and 10 3/8" waist.
These underdresses are from an original drawing of two French styled garments worn during the early 1800s, sometimes referred to as the French Empire Period.
The period garments were made from sheer muslin. We have used a sheer gauze but any sheer fabric that gives the proper look would be fine.
Our Early 1800 underdress has a gathered low cut front bodice which joins to side bodices. The back bodices gather on the top and waist edges. They are cut slightly taller than the front bodice.
Sleeves are very poufy to give the needed volume to the dress sleeves. They gather at the shoulder and at the very narrow sleeve bands.
Both the bodice and the sleeves are finished around the neckline with a very narrow bias cut band. This requires a bit of hand stitching. It is not complicated, but does take extra time.
The skirt for this underdress is made with 5 gores: 1 front, 2 sides and 2 backs.
The hemline is decorated and finished with traditional saw tooth braiding - small squares of fabric that are folded and pressed to create a pleated trim. We have two rows of braiding. The original underdress had 3 rows. You can modify the pattern to add another row or to leave out one row.
The underdress ties at the center back with two sets of white satin ribbon.
The Empire underdress was originally made using hand netting that was embroidered. Our garment is made using lace and cutting away the fabric from beneath it, creating the peek-a-boo design in the sleeves, front bodice and the skirt front.
Sleeves are the same style as the Early 1800's garment. They join to shoulder straps that attach to the bodice. The bodice is partially lined.
This underdress closes with white satin ribbons at the neck bands and the waist seams.
You could modify either underdress to eliminate the sleeves and give them more versatility. They could then be worn under other Regency dress styles.
The pattern prints on standard 8 1/2 by 11 inch paper.
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