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This is my first foray into designing a pattern for the circular sock knitting machine. I have fallen completely in love with my sock machines. I have so enjoyed writing this pattern and I hope you will be as happy with your Stripey Harlequin socks as I am with mine!
The pattern is available ONLY in ENGLISH. This listing is for a downloadable PDF, NOT FOR THE FINISHED ITEM. No hard copy is available.
There are 29 pages in this pattern. It would be better to view it on a tablet or pc, rather than printing.
I have really tried to make the instructions as clear as possible. From previous experience, I know that there will be some people who are able to make the end product with very little help, then there are folks who are visual learners, who need more help and then there are newbies who are adventurous and want to try something different and more challenging that a plain beginner project.
I have written the pattern taking into account all of these kinds of csmers. As a result, the pattern is very illustration heavy with step by step instructions. Most likely it will be WAY more than what you need if you are an experienced csmer, so please bear with the detail: someone else may find it useful.
The pattern has few photos in order to make the download size smaller. But I have created detailed illustration using Adobe Illustrator, so it should be easy enough to follow along.
This pattern can be made on any circular sock knitting machine (NOT plastic machines eg, ADDI and other “fun” circular knitters), be it modern or antique.
I have used a 60 slot compound cylinder. You do NOT need to have a compound cylinder to knit this sock. Use the cylinder that you normally would use to make your socks on. This pattern will work with the following cylinders:
48, 60, 72, 84, 96
Stitch gauge = 8.5 stitches per inch or 34 stitches per 4 inches
Row gauge = 11.5 rounds per inch or 48 rounds per 4 inches
The final sock was a perfect fit for a ladies UK size 7.
Fingering weight yarn.
I used a 100% superwash merino with approximately 400m/100g yardage. I needed around 50g of the yarn per sock. This resulted in a sock that was slightly shorter than mid calf. I have tried this with cotton yarn, and must admit to not liking the end result. The cotton has less “give”, making the cranking harder.
The ideal yarn is a short repeat self-striping or variegated yarn. Long repeat self-striping yarns can also work very well. The effect will be more subtle though. It is a little hard to say exactly how long the color repeats in the skein must be. In the different yarns I tested, I found repeats that will knit up around 2-3 rounds per color in plain stockinette, will work well. BUT, this will also depend on the size of the sock you are making, the tension on your machine as well as the cylinder slot number you are using. Experimentation is encouraged!
Waste yarn. I use crochet cotton as I find it makes removal much easier.
Tapestry needles for Kitchener stitch.
Nail polish in two different colors
You MUST know how to use your machine. This pattern assumes that you are comfortable with using your ribber and short rowing.
Kitchener stitch for closing the toes
E-wrap Cast on. I do explain how to work an e-wrap cast on.
The pattern is aimed at the more experienced knitter. But, an adventurous beginner with patience will also be able to follow along.
I hope that there aren’t any errors but if you do find something amiss, please kindly let me know? Thanks again to my lovely testers!
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