Alpaca Fleece - Hugh, Brown Huacaya -raw fleece, whole alpaca fleece, raw alpaca fiber, hand-spinning fiber, skirted alpaca fleece

$2.00+
+ $18.85 shipping
$2.00+
+ $18.85 shipping
In stock
Preparation takes 1-3 business days
Arrives from the United States

Features
Handmade
Made in Coalmont, Tennessee

Item details

This lovely auburn Huacaya alpaca fleece is from Hugh, I have his 2017 and 2018 shearings. The photos do not do the reddish tones justice - I included a small green bag to help adjust the color,  but it may still not be a perfect representation, and it will wash from this brown in the raw fleece to a beautiful color with “caramel depths), as one admiring customer put it.
Hugh's fleece is one of my shorter ones, about 2.5-3" staple, but it is very fine and soft.  He was chosen for his texture, and does indeed make incredibly soft yarn.  As a hand spinner myself, I like the grabby-ness of his fleece - it is fairly crimped and behaves more like sheep wool than some shorter alpaca, holding together well and fluffing into a cloud rather than plopping apart into clumpy locks.  It cards and drafts well because of this.
This fleece is skirted for the ounce and pound sizes, and is available either skirted or unskirted as a whole fleece, and most VM is picked out - there may still be an occasional bit of debris and of course a little dust, but we actually have very clean animals, and Hugh is one of the better ones.  Our shearer has commented that he's never sheared such clean fleeces, and can often cut all 12 animals on one blade rather than changing after 3-5 like most farms.  We move our animals almost every day for all but the coldest part of the year, so they are always on grassy, healthy pasture.  This means they don't have nearly the access to mud and dirt that most barn-kept alpacas do, so while there are some hay and pine needle VM, there's very little actual dirt.  I personally never wash my raw alpaca fleece until I actually have yarn!  

If you'd like a sample of Hugh's fleece, just send me a message and I'll send you a little.  For that matter, I can send samples of anyone you see listed, and I usually have a number of fleeces I’ve not gotten a chance to list on here so just ask, if I’m sending a sample I might as well send several :)

My pricing gives a 10% discount going from an ounce to a full pound, a 15% discount going to a full skirted fleece, and a 30% discount by buying a full unskirted fleece.

Shipping is set for a large flat rate box to cover a larger order - if shipping is less for your order I will refund the difference.


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Shipping & policies
Preparation takes 1-3 business days
Arrives from the United States
Estimated Shipping
Shipping to
Zip or postal code

I generally ship USPS - being rural that is the most convenient - but can ship UPS when appropriate. I ship items as soon as possible - if already made then within 1-3 days usually (if it's timed right, like on my farmers market day, it may ship in a few hours!), and if custom-made then within 2-4 weeks.

I pack and ship with 100% re-used and re-purposed materials, I do not buy anything except the tape, so I will refund any overages in shipping charges. I use bubble packing materials or brown paper that I receive with my supply orders, or my local newspaper to pack the orders for shipping. I virtually never use packing peanuts, I prefer the sheets of bubble material or paper. The mailers are all re-used, in fact my wonderful USPS clerk even saves me mailers! I often hand-address packages, but if I use a shipping label it and the invoice are printed on scrap paper.

My soaps usually ship in bubble mailers, although more than 3-4 bars may go in a small box. I will always ship the most economical way, I myself dislike paying inflated shipping! Larger orders (sheep or alpaca fleeces, for example) may be in branded boxes (Amazon, soap supply companies, etc), and wholesale soap orders will be in USPS Flat Rate boxes.

A vital part of our life philosophy at SFH is to leave as small a footprint in the physical world as we can. We are committed to making as little waste as possible, and hope that you support us in these wishes! If you prefer any part of our packing and shipping process to be different, please convo me with your request – paper rather than plastic packing, for example, or only an unmarked box/mailer – and I will do my best to accommodate that!


Returns & exchanges
I gladly accept returns and exchanges
Contact me within: 7 days of delivery
Ship items back within: 14 days of delivery
I don't accept cancellations
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
The following items can't be returned or exchanged
Because of the nature of these items, unless they arrive damaged or defective, I can't accept returns for:
  • Custom or personalized orders
  • Intimate items (for health/hygiene reasons)
Conditions of return
Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. If the item is not returned in its original condition, the buyer is responsible for any loss in value.
Additional return information
I am committed to creating and maintaining relationships with customers - I want you to be completely happy with your purchase. Please let me know immediately if you are not completely satisfied so that I can correct the issue to the best of my ability.

Additional policies

About LYE SOAP
Lye makes people nervous – but it shouldn't. My mother once read my soap label and said “Ugh! Lye!” with a shudder and frown. Then she handed me a bar of her friend's handmade goat milk soap, and said I should try it, it was really good soap. Yep, it had lye in it :-) In fact, all soap has lye in it. Yes ALL SOAP. As far as the chemistry goes, it simply isn't soap if it doesn't use lye. Body washes, hand soap, even solid soaps are often actually detergents, but legally if they meet some (fairly confusing) criteria, they are allowed to use the word soap, even though it isn't actually soap. Glycerin soaps are simply a regular soap that has had some alcohol and sugar added to clarify it and then glycerin added (not just as a bonus, but because it's necessary - more about this in a minute). If you don't see “Lye” or “Sodium Hydroxide” on the label, look for “saponified oil of ______” which just means “soap-ified”, or combined with lye.

To make soap, an oil mixture is combined with a lye-and-water or lye-and-milk solution, and the chemical reaction creates the substance soap, and the substance glycerin. A bar of “good” soap is, on average, 1/3 glycerin. Yep, that's even better than that certain company that puts ¼ moisturizer in their “soap”. Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it pulls water from the air to itself. That is why good soap is so moisturizing – all that glycerin is sucking water out of the air, into your skin, lliterally moisturizing it (rather than just oiling it in the hopes of trapping already-existing moisture in your skin). That's also why good, handmade soap tends to melt into goo in a humid environment (your shower) – because all that glycerin just can't get enough of that humidity! (So when your soap is melting into a puddle, just remember it's a sign of quality – and then store it higher and drier, or get a soap bag, or find some nifty felted soap!)

Now – commercial soap is different, because they strip out the glycerin, and sell you bars of just pure soap – and as we all know from using it, soap is drying (at least if you already took the good stuff out!). So, they package up the glycerin in lotion, and sell it to you for your dry skin. Every time you see the price of a bar of commercial soap, you should mentally add the price of a bottle of lotion – now that “pricey” good soap seems a little more reasonable!

Now that you know the basic chemistry of soapmaking, you realize that in fact, there is no lye in soap. It was an ingredient, but there is no hint of lye actually remaining, it is all turned into other substances. In fact, most recipes have a “superfat” factor (extra oils) of about 5%, some are 6 or 8, or even 10% superfatted (milk soaps are so good because the fats in the milk are basically extra, as are the egg yolks in my shampoo). This is to ensure that there is absolutely no free lye, because there's more than enough oils to react with it. Also, some oils don't completely transform in the soaping process – and that's a benefit. Shea butter, beeswax, and some others just don't react to the lye very well – which means you basically still have some shea butter in your soap, making it extra-moisturizing (again, that “lotion bar” soap that commercial companies brag about!)

Now – I've had people tell me they only use glycerin soap on their face because it's so gentle. Sadly, this is not really true. As I mentioned, glycerin soap is simply lye soap that's been clarified. “Purified” is a misnomer, because what has been taken out is anything that would cloud the clear soap – like that shea butter, or any superfatting! Glycerin soap is formulated at either 0% superfat – or negative numbers!! Then, a buffering solution of some sort of acid is added to neutralize any remaining lye (an alkali), because the important thing is that the soap is clear, not that it's great for your skin. To combat this lack of moisturizing-ness, extra glycerin is added back to the soap, thus the name. But it doesn't contain any more glycerin that “regular” bar soap.
So, to sum it up – don't panic, there's lye in your soap, it has to be there (but it isn't actually there!), and it's why handmade soap is so amazingly good for your skin!
If you have any further questions, I love to answer them, just shoot me a message anytime!