Yarn Weights:
There are many different charts with yarn weights in relation to “wraps per inch”, “yards per pound”, and gauge. Alas, so much has to do with perception (how tight is a wrap?) and technique (how loosely do you knit?), etc. For consistency, this is the chart that I am using to give you yarn grist/size information:
Weight WPI YPP
cobweb 30+ 3500+
lace 24-30 2400-3500
fine fingering 20-24 2200-2400
fingering 16-20 1600-2200
fine sport 14-16 1400-1600
DK 12-14 1100-1400
worsted 9-12 850-1100
bulky 7-9 400-850
super bulky 6 or less 400 or less
I rely on the number of yards (and I always round DOWN to the last increment of 5 when counting, e.g. 237 yds. becomes 235, 364 is listed as 360).
Wool grading and softness:
Wool is graded on a numerical count, which is how finely a wool can physically be spun. It is also important to know the micron number, which is the diameter of the individual fiber. So, “soft” in count means a higher number, “soft” in microns means a lower number.
The “softness” of a wool is based on the diameter of the wool, ranging, more or less, from a “count” in the 80s (less than 17 microns) to a count in the 30s (40 microns). In sensitive people, wool “allergies” are generally caused by their skin being prickled and irritated by the cut ends of individual fibers that are larger than 30 microns. So THIRTY microns is the magic number for the majority of people. The most sensitive people really need 21 or less microns not to be bothered. (This does not include people who have a systemic allergy to wool, which is quite rare condition.)
Most Merino wool is well below 30 microns, BFL is typically 24-28, most cross-breds and Shetlands are also above or just on the cusp of the magic 30 microns, the average for Corriedale is 25-32 which means some is finer and some is coarser. Falkland averages 24-28, while Romney is 30-32, so it is more likely to feel scratchy to sensitive persons. Most American-grown Alpaca (suri and huacaya) is generally in the 25-28 micron range, but can range from the finest of about 20 to the very coarsest of about 35.
Breed, bloodlines, and age can affect the micron number, so hence, there are wide ranges for wool. Short of getting a micrometer, breed specific characteristics are the easiest way to choose.
Miscellaneous notes:
Making a wool Superwash can be done by applying a very thin molecular resin coating over the scales of the individual hairs of wool to keep them from tangling/felting, or by removal of the spurs on the scales (also a chemical process). There are some versions of this process which are more sustainable than others. Alas, most superwash is not marked as to which way it was processed. The superwash process makes the wool shinier and sometimes stiffer.
Hand dyed yarn and wool may retain some residual color. Environmental standards preclude the use of heavy metals, so some colors, especially aqua and turquoise may run a bit when washed. Magenta is another difficult color. Small amounts of color residue will not affect the intensity of the yarn’s color. You should wash dyed handspun separately from other garments.
Please let me know if you are allergic to lavender.
My handspun wool yarns have been “set” with no weight to minimize bias memory.
