WHAT a TEAM!!!
We started our shop after Ilga broke her foot and spun a BUNCH of yarn to keep busy while non-weight bearing. Mike's sister suggested an Etsy shop to sell the piles of yarn.
When she was back standing on her own two feet, Ilga starting dyeing wool to have the colors she wanted for her spinning. One day, we decided to list some of the dyed fiber and now, it's our primary product.
Ilga spins, dyes, felts, photographs, PhotoShops, writes most of the narratives, and packages. Mike mixes the dyes, does the actual listings, buys materials, keeps financial records, and runs to the post office six days a week.
Together, we also maintain a large garden of ornamentals plus an extensive orchard and potager. We are cross-species "parents" to three German Shepherds, tend 14 chickens and many large koi in our pond.
Ilga’s shoulder has been more and more overworked and sore, so we’ve had to seek help with some of the physical activities in handling fiber. Cynthia helps in the garden, helps lay out wool on the dye tables, helps with carding of batts and pitches out with photography, measuring, and rinsing when Ilga falls behind.
We also maintain shops at http://edgewoodgardenstudio.com and http://edgewoodgardenstudio.zibbet.com/shop, each with their own selection of our hand painted rovings, spinning fiber batts, and handspun and hand dyed yarns.
Want to see our garden? Visit http://edgewoodgarden.com to take a virtual stroll through our photo galleries or arrange a visit.
Spinning, weaving, knitting, stitching, drawing and painting have been passions for years, sometimes for money, or just for fun! Also, an avid gardener, former high school teacher, arts administrator, and Microsoft program manager among other things.
Each skein of yarn or roving braid is a handmade, one-of-a-kind creation and as such may have small imperfections (consider them Wabi-Sabi) in dyeing or spinning. These are not machine-made items, and if I personally wouldn’t want to knit or weave with it or wear it, you won’t find it in my store. I endeavor to make the best possible product and hope that you enjoy the unique, personal touches I give to my work.
The descriptions given are accurate to the best of my knowledge and are based on the information from my suppliers of wool, silk, alpaca, etc. (Though I once raised sheep and angora rabbits, I am leaving that to others now.)
Please remember that computer monitor displays are varied and colors may appear differently on yours than on mine. I take my pictures with a Nikon D90 in natural light (with minimal flash), to ensure as close a match to real life as possible. Also, I try to give you a verbal description of the colors and hand.
We are a smoke-free, pet-friendly household, with three German Shepherds in residence, so it is possible that you might find an occasional dog hair in your wool, despite our best efforts to keep them out. Bear this in mind if you have a serious allergy to animal hair.
If you see an item you'd like, but you want to wait to purchase, you may request that the item be reserved for you. I will mark it as reserved. A reservation request is considered a firm commitment to buy. Reserved items not purchased within two weeks of reservation will be returned to general availability, unless other arrangements have been made. You may reserve up to ten items at a time.
Thanks for your requests. I'm delighted that you like my rovings. Unfortunately, the manner in which I dye (Oh, a little of this and a little of that, let's mix these two colors in a jar...mmm...layer this over that maybe?) doesn’t make for easy reproduction. It’s a bit of a mad and joyous process, different every time I dye. Even different wool types take the dye differently, e.g. Wensleydale and silk LOVE dyes; Merino can be persnickety and wash out a bit; on BFL the colors slide around and merge; with Canterbury Romney, the dyes stay put. So, I am unable to replicate existing rovings, or to dye rovings to order.
Each roving in my shop is a unique individual as ephemeral as a butterfly and I hope that you can find something that you like amongst my listings.
I may be able to spin a custom yarn for you. There is usually a long waiting list, but if you are not in a hurry, convo me with your request.
I spin yarn in weights from DK (about 300 yards) to fingering (about 500-550 yards) per 4 ounce roving. If you want two skeins, I can ply two similar rovings together for approximately 500 to 1100 yards, respectively. If you need more than that, then we can talk about colors, what you are knitting, what wool type would work best for you and what I can make for you. If I am dyeing large amounts of wool specifically for your project, there will be a 10% surcharge on the finished yarn. I prefer not spinning other people’s rovings, and please do not buy one of my rovings and then ask that I spin it, as those rovings have already been allocated to my spinning customers.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me. You can Convo me or email me directly at: store [!at] edgewoodgarden.com.
You can also make a virtual visit to our garden at http://www.edgewoodgarden.com.
Accepted payment methods
If you are a WA state resident, you will be charged 9.9% sales tax.
Shipments to the USA for items under one pound in weight will be made via USPS First Class. You can elect to upgrade to Priority Mail at checkout,if you wish. Packages weighing more than one pound always ship via Priority mail. Large orders, over about 10 pounds, will ship via FedEx Ground if it is the most cost effective way. All international orders under four pounds in weight will ship First Class Mail, to keep costs down, unless you request a faster method. I will combine items if you make multiple purchases, and any excess shipping charges will be refunded after the actual costs have been determined.
Packages will not be insured unless you make a special request. Happy to do it, just contact me and I will send you a revised invoice. Though I will make every effort to be sure that your items get to you as quickly and safely as possible, we are not responsible for lost, damaged in shipping, or delayed items.
Any duties, taxes, tariffs or fees for packages shipped internationally are your responsibility. I am not able to estimate what any of these charges to you might be. If you are concerned about duties, please check with your local authorities before you order. It is required by law that the customs form I fill out accurately state the value of the goods you have purchased.
International buyers, please add your phone number as a note to your order, as it is required for US customs declarations.
Returns and exchanges
- Custom or personalized orders
- Perishable products (like food or flowers)
- Digital downloads
- Intimate items (for health/hygiene reasons)
I hope it won’t ever happen, but if the wrong item was shipped to you, please return it within 10 days of receipt (unharmed and in “new” condition) and I shall cover the exchange shipping costs via PayPal.
Additional policies and FAQs
There are many different charts with yarn weights in relation to “wraps per inch”, “yards per pound”, and gauge. Alas, so much has to do with perception (how tight is a wrap?) and technique (how loosely do you knit?), etc. For consistency, this is the chart that I am using to give you yarn grist/size information:
Weight WPI YPP
cobweb 30+ 3500+
lace 24-30 2400-3500
fine fingering 20-24 2200-2400
fingering 16-20 1600-2200
fine sport 14-16 1400-1600
DK 12-14 1100-1400
worsted 9-12 850-1100
bulky 7-9 400-850
super bulky 6 or less 400 or less
I rely on the number of yards (and I always round DOWN to the last increment of 5 when counting, e.g. 237 yds. becomes 235, 364 is listed as 360).
Wool grading and softness:
Wool is graded on a numerical count, which is how finely a wool can physically be spun. It is also important to know the micron number, which is the diameter of the individual fiber. So, “soft” in count means a higher number, “soft” in microns means a lower number.
The “softness” of a wool is based on the diameter of the wool, ranging, more or less, from a “count” in the 80s (less than 17 microns) to a count in the 30s (40 microns). In sensitive people, wool “allergies” are generally caused by their skin being prickled and irritated by the cut ends of individual fibers that are larger than 30 microns. So THIRTY microns is the magic number for the majority of people. The most sensitive people really need 21 or less microns not to be bothered. (This does not include people who have a systemic allergy to wool, which is quite rare condition.)
Most Merino wool is well below 30 microns, BFL is typically 24-28, most cross-breds and Shetlands are also above or just on the cusp of the magic 30 microns, the average for Corriedale is 25-32 which means some is finer and some is coarser. Falkland averages 24-28, while Romney is 30-32, so it is more likely to feel scratchy to sensitive persons. Most American-grown Alpaca (suri and huacaya) is generally in the 25-28 micron range, but can range from the finest of about 20 to the very coarsest of about 35.
Breed, bloodlines, and age can affect the micron number, so hence, there are wide ranges for wool. Short of getting a micrometer, breed specific characteristics are the easiest way to choose.
Making a wool Superwash can be done by applying a very thin molecular resin coating over the scales of the individual hairs of wool to keep them from tangling/felting, or by removal of the spurs on the scales (also a chemical process). There are some versions of this process which are more sustainable than others. Alas, most superwash is not marked as to which way it was processed. The superwash process makes the wool shinier and sometimes stiffer.
Hand dyed yarn and wool may retain some residual color. Environmental standards preclude the use of heavy metals, so some colors, especially aqua and turquoise may run a bit when washed. Magenta is another difficult color. Small amounts of color residue will not affect the intensity of the yarn’s color. You should wash dyed handspun separately from other garments.
Please let me know if you are allergic to lavender.
My handspun wool yarns have been “set” with no weight to minimize bias memory.